Tank failure
A tank that splits or weeps from the base. The volume can be large, and the water spreads under the house and into the room below.
Stopping, extracting and drying water from a failed tank, a leaking fitting or a relief valve that released hot water across Collierville and Shelby County.
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A water heater failure can release a large volume of water in minutes, from a split tank, a failed fitting or a relief valve that discharges onto the floor. In Collierville, utility rooms and garages hold many heaters, and the water runs across the floor and into the room below. The work turns off the heater, extracts the water and dries the structure that it reached.
A failing heater can look harmless until the tank gives way. A relief valve that drips, a base that has begun to weep or a fitting that is crusted with rust can release far more water than expected once the pressure builds. The first step is to turn off the power or gas and close the cold supply to the tank.
Hot water is a scald risk as well as a water risk. Let the tank cool before anyone handles the fittings, and keep children and pets clear of the discharge while it is still hot.
Turn off the power or gas before working near the heater. Do not stand in water near the heater, the controls or any plugged-in appliance. Be careful around hot water and steam from the relief valve. If you smell gas, leave the building and call the utility from outside.
The heater's power or gas is turned off at the controls, and the cold supply to the tank is closed. The area is kept clear while the tank cools.
The crew follows the water from the heater across the floor, under the wall and into any adjoining room, and marks the wet edge on a plan.
Standing water is pumped or vacuumed from the floor and the drain pan, and the area under the heater is opened where needed to reach water that has gone under it.
The floor, the wall plate and any room below are dried to readings. Drywall and insulation that stayed wet are removed where they cannot be dried.
The failure is recorded with photographs of the tank, the fittings and the relief valve. Repair or replacement is a licensed plumber's work, and the scope says so.
Because a tank corrodes from inside and the corrosion is not visible. A relief valve can also stick or leak, and a fitting can work loose over time. A failure often shows first as water at the base.
Water heaters are often in garages and utility rooms where they are seldom checked. A tank that is weeping at the base or a valve that drips may do so for weeks before the tank fails.
A check of the base, the relief valve and the fittings each season, plus a note of the tank's age, helps the homeowner decide when to replace the unit before it fails.
Turn off the power or gas, close the cold supply and call. Do not touch the relief valve while it is discharging, and do not drain a hot tank yourself unless a plumber has said how.
A tank under pressure can release a large volume quickly, so close the supply as soon as you can and keep children and pets clear while the tank cools.
If the water is near an outlet or the panel, leave the area and call from outside. Do not step into water that is touching electrical equipment.
Many standard homeowner policies cover sudden water damage from a failed heater, but they often exclude the cost of the heater itself and gradual leaks. Ask the insurer in writing which part of the loss is covered.
The record should include the heater's age, the photographs of the failure and the water path, and the drying log. The failed part, kept for the insurer, can be as useful as any photograph.
A written complaint to the Tennessee Department of Commerce and Insurance is the next step if the insurer's position is not explained in writing.
The drain pan, the discharge line, the relief valve and the shut-off should be in working order before the new unit is connected. A plumber can advise on the connections and on the pressure at the house.
A drain pan piped to a safe discharge is one of the cheapest protections against a repeat loss. Ask the plumber to check the pressure and the relief valve and to note their condition on the invoice.
A leak sensor on the floor beside the heater gives early warning, and the crew can recommend where to place one after the drying.
The floor and the ceiling of the room below are checked with readings at the same points each day. Where the readings are high, a small opening shows whether the water has reached the framing.
Water from a heater can run down through the floor and into the joists below. The readings decide whether the joists and the ceiling must be opened, and how far.
Ask the crew to show the readings for the floor and the room below, not only the garage floor.
A tank that splits or weeps from the base. The volume can be large, and the water spreads under the house and into the room below.
A relief valve that releases hot water onto the floor. The water is often hot enough to damage flooring and fixtures, and it spreads quickly.
A supply or drain fitting at the top or the bottom of the heater that has cracked or loosened. The leak can start slowly and then grow once the pressure rises.
Heaters in garages are exposed to the outside air, so a cold snap can stress the fittings. Check the heater after a freeze as well as before one.
Many heaters in this area sit in garages or utility rooms beside the laundry, so a failure can reach both at once. The crew checks both rooms.
The record of a heater failure is useful to the plumber as well as the insurer, because it shows where the water went and which fittings to check first.
A crew is dispatched as fast as one is available, and you approve the estimate before any work starts.
Not sure if you're covered? Check your ZIP code.
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A boil-water notice and a pressure loss are two separate problems that often arrive together.
Only if you know how and the tank has cooled. A hot tank can scald, and a stuck valve can release a large volume. A plumber can drain and check it.
No. The crew dries the area and records the damage. A licensed plumber repairs or replaces the heater.
Because the water ran down through the floor and collected below. The crew traces the path and dries the joists and ceiling under the heater.
Not until a plumber has checked it. A heater that has leaked may have a damaged fitting or valve.
Check the pan and the connections each season, replace old hoses and fit a drain line or a leak sensor. A plumber can advise on the tank's age and the right time to replace it.
Often, for a sudden failure, while the heater itself may be excluded. Ask the insurer in writing which part is covered.